I find it so interesting that many of Scotland’s best historical tales involve strong women and families who preserver alone against their world.
Such a tale is the story of Mary King, the “daughter” (some dispute that she was his daughter) of Alexander King, who was advocate for Mary Queen of Scots. Mary was born near the end of the 16th century. She earned enough money to afford a decent lifestyle by sewing garments and selling fine cloths from a shop or stall on the High Street. Mary was also a Burgess in her day, which meant she had voting rights in the city, which was very uncommon in those days.
Since Mary’s husband died after only 13 years of marriage, leaving her with four children, she moved into one of the several tenement properties owned by Alexander King, in what we now know as “Mary King’s Close” where she worked hard as a business-woman to support her family in an incredibly challenging environment.
Such a tale is the story of Mary King, the “daughter” (some dispute that she was his daughter) of Alexander King, who was advocate for Mary Queen of Scots. Mary was born near the end of the 16th century. She earned enough money to afford a decent lifestyle by sewing garments and selling fine cloths from a shop or stall on the High Street. Mary was also a Burgess in her day, which meant she had voting rights in the city, which was very uncommon in those days.
Since Mary’s husband died after only 13 years of marriage, leaving her with four children, she moved into one of the several tenement properties owned by Alexander King, in what we now know as “Mary King’s Close” where she worked hard as a business-woman to support her family in an incredibly challenging environment.
The evolution of the “close” where Mary lived is an interesting story. As the town of Edinburgh grew from the 16th century, the “spine” of Edinburgh ran from Edinburgh Castle on its high craggy hill down to Holyrood Palace and Abbey following the ridge of the hill. This street is now called the “Royal Mile”. Along this spine, narrow alleys called “closes” projected outward like the bones of a fish. These alleys were named for the businesses and prominent people who owned property on these narrow streets.
From the beginning of their existence, these closes housed craftsmen, merchants and professionals along with laborers and the lower and middle classes. It’s interesting that this variety of people all lived together, but the secret to housing this overcrowded population, was the tall multi-story tenement style buildings, (some up to 15 floors!) that towered over the closes. The wealthier families lived on the upper floors and the less fortunate lived down near the steep stone street.
I’m sure you can imagine these poorer people dogging the contents of chamber pots as each night, floors above them, people emptied the pots with the call of “gardy-loo!”, which comes from the French garde L'eau which means 'watch out for the water’.
The narrow alleys on the side of the spine that Mary Kings Close occupies sloped down to a lake, which was really just a cesspool of excrement because the town depended upon rain to wash their waste down to the "lake". One small slip on the narrow lane could send you sliding down the lane and into the disgusting water.
The narrow alleys on the side of the spine that Mary Kings Close occupies sloped down to a lake, which was really just a cesspool of excrement because the town depended upon rain to wash their waste down to the "lake". One small slip on the narrow lane could send you sliding down the lane and into the disgusting water.
As you can imagine, these overcrowded, filthy conditions contributed greatly to the tragic outbreak of the plague, when it arrived from Europe.
Historical legend says that in a desperate measure to reduce contamination over 300 plague victims were quarantined, probably to die, when Mary King’s Close was bricked up until the plague had passed, giving the alley the nickname “street of sorrows”.
We do know that during plagues, people would have to hang a white rag outside their door if they had the plague and that food would be left outside for them. Those “Physicians” who actually tried to help people, would dress completely in leather and wear masks with long beaks stuffed with herbs to try to protect themselves against the plague.
Historical legend says that in a desperate measure to reduce contamination over 300 plague victims were quarantined, probably to die, when Mary King’s Close was bricked up until the plague had passed, giving the alley the nickname “street of sorrows”.
We do know that during plagues, people would have to hang a white rag outside their door if they had the plague and that food would be left outside for them. Those “Physicians” who actually tried to help people, would dress completely in leather and wear masks with long beaks stuffed with herbs to try to protect themselves against the plague.
Naturally, the wealthier people in Edinburgh got tired of living in cramped conditions and during the Enlightenment in the late 18th century; they decided to build a “New Town” where they could live in spacious splendor far away from the cramped smells of the “Old Town”.
While beautiful new Georgian structures were being built in New Town, the Old Town was also being modernized. Many of the closes were built over during the renovations of the Old Town.
While beautiful new Georgian structures were being built in New Town, the Old Town was also being modernized. Many of the closes were built over during the renovations of the Old Town.
At Mary King’s Close, the tenants were evicted and the lower floors of the buildings were used as the foundation for The Royal Exchange, built in 1753 which actually spanned and covered over the close. With the close sealed, for the next 250 years the floors below remained largely unchanged, like a historic vault waiting for tourists to find it.
This is the point in the history of the close where Jim and I appeared, ready to take our tour of the famous street. Upon entering Mary King’s Close, you are greeted by actors dressed in period clothes, representing characters who actually lived in the close when it was occupied.
Our tour leader was the “Spanish Envoy” and he escorted us through a fun and interesting experience down into the bowels of the old close, through what would have been a warren of homes, workrooms, shops. We even visited the remains of what is proposed to be the home of “Annie”, one of the plagues youngest victims. People leave dolls and toys in her honor.
We were finally led out to the narrow, very steep, street, which is now closed over and dark, where we gazed up at the towering tenements, laundry hanaging across the narrow space between the buildings, and imagined we might hear echoes of “garde loo!” from back in the day. The tour is filled with history, fun anecdote and ghostly stories and we loved it!
Our tour leader was the “Spanish Envoy” and he escorted us through a fun and interesting experience down into the bowels of the old close, through what would have been a warren of homes, workrooms, shops. We even visited the remains of what is proposed to be the home of “Annie”, one of the plagues youngest victims. People leave dolls and toys in her honor.
We were finally led out to the narrow, very steep, street, which is now closed over and dark, where we gazed up at the towering tenements, laundry hanaging across the narrow space between the buildings, and imagined we might hear echoes of “garde loo!” from back in the day. The tour is filled with history, fun anecdote and ghostly stories and we loved it!
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